Half 2 of Our Traxxas Shock Rebuild Collection
Massive Bore Comparability Chart
All Massive Bore shocks characteristic hard-anodized aluminum our bodies with friction-fighting PTFE-coated bores and titanium-nitride (TiN) coated shafts. Some units embody springs, others don’t; click on the picture to develop the chart displaying the totally different Massive Bore units, how they’re geared up, and the fashions they match.
When to Rebuild
The seals that maintain the oil within any shock are consumable components that require periodic substitute. Shafts and pistons put on out too, however much less rapidly. Seal life varies with floor kind and terrain, so there’s no fastened service interval. Shocks subjected to harsh terrain and dusty, gritty surfaces will put on seals out extra quickly than the shocks on a mannequin that operates in smoother terrain and cleaner circumstances. Common inspection is essential; rebuild should you uncover any of the shocks:
- Are very moist the place the shaft exits the physique, or you may see oil has leaked out of the shock
- Have scored, scratched, or bent shafts
- Really feel tough, lumpy, or in any other case not-smooth when compressed with the spring eliminated
It’s good follow to rebuild all of the shocks collectively, even when just one or two shocks appears to be in want. Rebuild kits are cheap, and also you’ll be assured all of the shocks are working equally properly.
|Required Components and Instruments|
Step 1: Take away the Spring Retainer, Spring, and Higher Retainer
Pull the spring as much as take stress off the retainer, then raise the retainer off of the rod finish and slip it off of the shock shaft. With the retainer eliminated, you may slide the spring, higher retainer, and any preload spacers off the shock.
Step 2: Take away the Cap and Drain the Shock
It’s best to be capable to spin the cap off along with your fingers. If it’s cussed, cross a driver shaft by way of the screw gap within the cap to present your self further leverage. You too can wrap a rubber band across the shock physique for further grip if wanted. Empty the shock oil right into a disposable cup as you progress the shock shaft by way of the physique to assist expel as a lot of the previous oil as you may, then take away the diaphragm from the shock cap. Should you can’t pop the diaphragm out with a fingernail, use a screwdriver. (The rebuild package consists of new diaphragms, so don’t fear about damaging the previous ones.)
Step 3: Take away the Rod Finish and Shock Shaft
The rod finish merely unscrews from the shock shaft. You’ll want to carry the shock shaft to forestall it from turning, however it’s necessary to not seize the shaft with naked pliers. Squeezing the shaft with pliers will harm the titanium nitride end and should gouge the shafts, inflicting the shocks to leak. Listed here are two methods to carry the shaft with out marring it:
Methodology 1: Facet cutters (also called diagonal cutters). Use the skinny jaws to seize the shaft simply above the rod finish. Any marks on the shaft shall be hidden by the spring retainer when the shock is reassembled.
Methodology 2: Pad the shock shaft with tape. Painters’ tape works properly for this. Wrap about 5 inches of tape across the shaft to construct up a thick pad, then squeeze tightly with pliers. The jaws might minimize by way of a layer or two of tape, however received’t attain the shaft.
Step 4: Take away the Seals and Spacers
The seals are held within the physique by a C-clip. The clip could be popped out with a small flat-blade screwdriver, however this system can cosmetically harm the physique. It’s greatest to make use of a pair of C-clip pliers (also called retaining-ring pliers). These will take away the clip simply with out damaging the physique, and make it a lot simpler to reinstall the clip later. Select inner ring C-clip pliers with the next specs: ring diameter: 1/4 x 5/16 in. (6×8 mm), tip diameter: 0.025 in., Tip angle: 45° or 90°. Remember to put on security glasses when eradicating the clip—it’s beneath stress and may go flying if it pops off the instrument.
Step 5: Lubricate and Set up the New X-ring Seals
Coat the seals with shock oil earlier than putting in them. To keep away from oily fingers, place the seals in a plastic bag with just a few drops of shock oil and smoosh them round from outdoors the bag. As soon as they’re coated insert them into the shock physique with the spacer in between the seals. The translucent washer goes on final, adopted by the C-clip.
Step 6: Non-obligatory – Exchange the Piston and Shaft
You don’t want to switch the shock piston with every rebuild, as plastic sliding towards PTFE-coated aluminum in an oil bathtub doesn’t create plenty of put on. Likewise, the titanium-nitride coated shaft ought to outlast many seals. But when the piston match is sloppy (otherwise you need to swap the 2-hole pistons for 3-hole, or vice-versa), or the shafts are broken or scuffed and not have their shine (which makes them vulnerable to weeping oil), the components are straightforward to switch. Use a flat-blade screwdriver with a 1/8” tip to pop the e-clip off the tip of the shock shaft and launch the piston. Use a brand new e-clip from the #2362 rebuild package to safe the brand new piston. Should you’re changing a shaft, set up the decrease e-clip first, then the piston, then the highest e-clip.
Step 7: Reinstall the Shock Shaft and Rod Finish
Lubricate the shock shaft’s threads with shock oil to assist them cross by way of the seals extra simply, then insert the shaft into the physique. Wiggle the shaft to assist it cross by way of the seals. Thread the rod finish again onto the shaft, and the shock is now prepared for filling.
Step 8: Refill the Shock
This step has is definitely just a few steps. Correct filling is crucial to peak shock efficiency, so take the few further minutes required to do the job correctly.
With the shock shaft totally prolonged, fill the shock till it’s about 3 mm under the highest of the physique.
Slowly cycle the shock shaft up and right down to launch any air bubbles trapped in or under the piston. When all of the air bubbles have been launched into the oil, set the shock apart to present the bubbles time to dissipate. (Whilst you wait, you may transfer onto rebuilding the following shock.)
After the bubbles are gone, push the shock shaft into the physique till this piston reaches the highest of the oil. Add oil till the extent is about 1.5 mm from the highest of the shock physique.
Insert the brand new diaphragm included with the rebuild package. Some oil shall be displaced, which is okay.
Set up the shock cap and tighten it till it meets the shock physique. Cosy is all you want, don’t overdo it.
Step 9: Test Rebound
Press the shock shaft all the way in which in, so the rod finish meets the physique. Launch the shaft, and notice how far the shaft extends by itself. It ought to lengthen to between one-third and one-half of full extension. If the rod finish received’t attain the physique, otherwise you really feel plenty of resistance because the rod finish reaches the physique, then there’s an excessive amount of oil within the shock. Loosen the cap and compress the shock to push 2-3 drops out, retighten the cap, and check rebound once more. If the shaft doesn’t rebound in any respect, or you may really feel air bubbles within the oil, add just a few drops of oil. Repeat till the shock rebounds accurately, and you’ll cycle the shock shaft out and in with out listening to or feeling bubbles within the oil.
Coming Up in Half 3: Learn how to rebuild GTR aluminum-body shocks.