How To Rebuild Traxxas Big Bore Shocks

How To Rebuild Traxxas Big Bore Shocks

Half 2 of Our Traxxas Shock Rebuild Collection

Welcome to Half 2 of our shock absorber rebuild information. On this collection, you’ll learn to restore like-new efficiency to each kind of damper Traxxas gives. We lined Extremely Shocks in Part 1, and now we flip our consideration to the elective Massive Bore aluminum-body shocks. Massive Bore shocks are available in many various lengths for Traxxas 1/10 scale autos starting from the 4-Tec 2.0 to the mighty T-Maxx with its 8-shock setup. Right here’s the best way to hold your Massive Bores working their greatest.
suspension tuning guideClick on on the picture to find out how shock absorbers work and the best way to tune them.

Massive Bore Comparability Chart
All Massive Bore shocks characteristic hard-anodized aluminum our bodies with friction-fighting PTFE-coated bores and titanium-nitride (TiN) coated shafts. Some units embody springs, others don’t; click on the picture to develop the chart displaying the totally different Massive Bore units, how they’re geared up, and the fashions they match.

Big Bore Comparison Chart

When to Rebuild
The seals that maintain the oil within any shock are consumable components that require periodic substitute. Shafts and pistons put on out too, however much less rapidly. Seal life varies with floor kind and terrain, so there’s no fastened service interval. Shocks subjected to harsh terrain and dusty, gritty surfaces will put on seals out extra quickly than the shocks on a mannequin that operates in smoother terrain and cleaner circumstances. Common inspection is essential; rebuild should you uncover any of the shocks:

  • Are very moist the place the shaft exits the physique, or you may see oil has leaked out of the shock
  • Have scored, scratched, or bent shafts
  • Really feel tough, lumpy, or in any other case not-smooth when compressed with the spring eliminated

It’s good follow to rebuild all of the shocks collectively, even when just one or two shocks appears to be in want. Rebuild kits are cheap, and also you’ll be assured all of the shocks are working equally properly.

Shock rebuild kit
The 2362 rebuild package consists of seals, spacers, e-clips and diaphragms for 2 Extremely Shocks. The package additionally works with Massive Bore shocks, which use the c-clips and clear spacers.

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Required Components and Instruments
  • Security glasses
  • Facet cutters or slip-joint pliers
  • Inside C-clip pliers
  • Paper towels
  • Disposable cup
  • Non-obligatory: latex or nitrile gloves
  • 2362 Shock Rebuild Package (x2)
  • 5032 Silicone shock oil, 30 weight
Non-obligatory Gadgets
  • 5038X 20-80 wt. shock oil set with carousel
  • 3426 Traxxas rubber pit mat
  • 8712 Velocity Bit Necessities instrument package
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shock oil chartThe #5038X shock oil set features a carousel organizer and 7 2 oz. bottles of premium silicone oil starting from 20 to 80 weight.

Step 1: Take away the Spring Retainer, Spring, and Higher Retainer
Pull the spring as much as take stress off the retainer, then raise the retainer off of the rod finish and slip it off of the shock shaft. With the retainer eliminated, you may slide the spring, higher retainer, and any preload spacers off the shock.

Remote the preload spacers and springs
Push the retainer off of the rod finish and slip it off the shaft, then slide the spring and preload spacers off.

Step 2: Take away the Cap and Drain the Shock
It’s best to be capable to spin the cap off along with your fingers. If it’s cussed, cross a driver shaft by way of the screw gap within the cap to present your self further leverage. You too can wrap a rubber band across the shock physique for further grip if wanted. Empty the shock oil right into a disposable cup as you progress the shock shaft by way of the physique to assist expel as a lot of the previous oil as you may, then take away the diaphragm from the shock cap. Should you can’t pop the diaphragm out with a fingernail, use a screwdriver. (The rebuild package consists of new diaphragms, so don’t fear about damaging the previous ones.)

Remove the cap
If the cap is difficult to take away, grip the physique with a rubber band and use a driver for leverage.
Pop the diaphragm out of the shock cap.Pop the diaphragm out of the shock cap.
Drain the shock the oil into a disposable cup.Drain the shock the oil right into a disposable cup.

Step 3: Take away the Rod Finish and Shock Shaft
The rod finish merely unscrews from the shock shaft. You’ll want to carry the shock shaft to forestall it from turning, however it’s necessary to not seize the shaft with naked pliers. Squeezing the shaft with pliers will harm the titanium nitride end and should gouge the shafts, inflicting the shocks to leak. Listed here are two methods to carry the shaft with out marring it:

Methodology 1: Facet cutters (also called diagonal cutters). Use the skinny jaws to seize the shaft simply above the rod finish. Any marks on the shaft shall be hidden by the spring retainer when the shock is reassembled.

Methodology 2: Pad the shock shaft with tape. Painters’ tape works properly for this. Wrap about 5 inches of tape across the shaft to construct up a thick pad, then squeeze tightly with pliers. The jaws might minimize by way of a layer or two of tape, however received’t attain the shaft.

Use the side-cutters to grip the shaft just above the rod end.Use the side-cutters to grip the shaft above the rod finish.
Build up a thick pad of tape to protect the shaft.Construct up a thick pad of tape to guard the shaft.
If your Big Bore shocks have bump stops, set them aside with the rod ends so you don’t forget to reinstall them later
In case your Massive Bore shocks have bump stops, set them apart with the rod ends so that you don’t neglect to reinstall them later
After removing the rod end, push the shaft all the way into the body and grab the piston to remove the shaft.
After eradicating the rod finish, push the shaft all the way in which into the physique and seize the piston to take away the shaft from the shock physique.

Step 4: Take away the Seals and Spacers
The seals are held within the physique by a C-clip. The clip could be popped out with a small flat-blade screwdriver, however this system can cosmetically harm the physique. It’s greatest to make use of a pair of C-clip pliers (also called retaining-ring pliers). These will take away the clip simply with out damaging the physique, and make it a lot simpler to reinstall the clip later. Select inner ring C-clip pliers with the next specs: ring diameter: 1/4 x 5/16 in. (6×8 mm), tip diameter: 0.025 in., Tip angle: 45° or 90°. Remember to put on security glasses when eradicating the clip—it’s beneath stress and may go flying if it pops off the instrument.

The C-clip are removed using specialized pliers.The C-clip are eliminated utilizing specialised pliers.
Squeeze the clip’s ends together, slide it out of the groove, and lift the clip out.
Squeeze the clip’s ends collectively, slide it out of the groove, and raise the clip out.
Use the shock shaft to extract the seals and spacers from the shock body.
Use the shock shaft to extract the seals and spacers from the shock physique.

Step 5: Lubricate and Set up the New X-ring Seals
Coat the seals with shock oil earlier than putting in them. To keep away from oily fingers, place the seals in a plastic bag with just a few drops of shock oil and smoosh them round from outdoors the bag. As soon as they’re coated insert them into the shock physique with the spacer in between the seals. The translucent washer goes on final, adopted by the C-clip.

Coat the seals with shock oilCoat the seals with shock oil earlier than putting in them.
Install the seals, spacer, washer, and C-clip in this order.Set up the seals, spacer, washer, and C-clip on this order.
Install the new C-clip. To make the job easier, use a pencil eraser to press the washer down and fully seat the seal parts before installing the clip.

Set up the brand new C-clip. To make the job simpler, use a pencil eraser to press the washer down and totally seat the seal components earlier than putting in the clip.

Step 6: Non-obligatory – Exchange the Piston and Shaft
You don’t want to switch the shock piston with every rebuild, as plastic sliding towards PTFE-coated aluminum in an oil bathtub doesn’t create plenty of put on. Likewise, the titanium-nitride coated shaft ought to outlast many seals. But when the piston match is sloppy (otherwise you need to swap the 2-hole pistons for 3-hole, or vice-versa), or the shafts are broken or scuffed and not have their shine (which makes them vulnerable to weeping oil), the components are straightforward to switch. Use a flat-blade screwdriver with a 1/8” tip to pop the e-clip off the tip of the shock shaft and launch the piston. Use a brand new e-clip from the #2362 rebuild package to safe the brand new piston. Should you’re changing a shaft, set up the decrease e-clip first, then the piston, then the highest e-clip.

Twist the screwdriver to pop off the e-clip
Twist the screwdriver to pop off the e-clip and intention it at a rag or right into a cup.
Use needle-nose pliers to secure the piston with a fresh e-clip.
Use needle-nose pliers to safe the piston with a contemporary e-clip.

Step 7: Reinstall the Shock Shaft and Rod Finish
Lubricate the shock shaft’s threads with shock oil to assist them cross by way of the seals extra simply, then insert the shaft into the physique. Wiggle the shaft to assist it cross by way of the seals. Thread the rod finish again onto the shaft, and the shock is now prepared for filling.

Lube the shaft’s threads
Lubricate the shaft’s threads in order that they’ll cross by way of the seals extra simply.
Don't damage the shock shaft
Bear in mind to not seize the shock shaft with naked pliers while you reinstall the rod finish.

Step 8: Refill the Shock
This step has is definitely just a few steps. Correct filling is crucial to peak shock efficiency, so take the few further minutes required to do the job correctly.

Shock fill diagram

Step A
With the shock shaft totally prolonged, fill the shock till it’s about 3 mm under the highest of the physique.

Step B
Slowly cycle the shock shaft up and right down to launch any air bubbles trapped in or under the piston. When all of the air bubbles have been launched into the oil, set the shock apart to present the bubbles time to dissipate. (Whilst you wait, you may transfer onto rebuilding the following shock.)

Step C
After the bubbles are gone, push the shock shaft into the physique till this piston reaches the highest of the oil. Add oil till the extent is about 1.5 mm from the highest of the shock physique.

Step D
Insert the brand new diaphragm included with the rebuild package. Some oil shall be displaced, which is okay.

Step E
Set up the shock cap and tighten it till it meets the shock physique. Cosy is all you want, don’t overdo it.

Use pliers with a rubber band around the handle
High Tip: Use pliers with a rubber band across the deal with to carry the shock upright when you anticipate the air bubbles to dissipate.

Step 9: Test Rebound
Press the shock shaft all the way in which in, so the rod finish meets the physique. Launch the shaft, and notice how far the shaft extends by itself. It ought to lengthen to between one-third and one-half of full extension. If the rod finish received’t attain the physique, otherwise you really feel plenty of resistance because the rod finish reaches the physique, then there’s an excessive amount of oil within the shock. Loosen the cap and compress the shock to push 2-3 drops out, retighten the cap, and check rebound once more. If the shaft doesn’t rebound in any respect, or you may really feel air bubbles within the oil, add just a few drops of oil. Repeat till the shock rebounds accurately, and you’ll cycle the shock shaft out and in with out listening to or feeling bubbles within the oil.

Check rebound
The shaft ought to lengthen to between one-third and one-half of full extension.
Fully compress the shock
Absolutely compress the shock after which let go to examine rebound.
Reinstall the spring
Reinstall the spring, preload spacers, and spring retainer and your Massive Bore shock is prepared to return in your mannequin.

Coming Up in Half 3: Learn how to rebuild GTR aluminum-body shocks.

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