Losing Grip – Hobbynox airbrush paints

Losing Grip – Hobbynox airbrush paints

Shedding Grip – Hobbynox airbrush paints

I painted my very first polycarbonate physique in 1992, utilizing two pots of paint and a brush. A Kyosho Ferrari F40, state-of-the-art. Purple physique, crimson spoiler, black home windows. Again then precut window masks weren’t invented, so the strategy was barely totally different. First, a skinny (1mm) black masking tape was utilized on the surface, marking home windows and physique strains. Then paint was utilized by brush on the insidee, utilizing the tape as a information, rigorously staying on the suitable aspect of the skinny black line. I used to be a religious miniature painter, so had not a lot of an issue with this little problem, and was very proud of the tip outcome.

The 5 or 6 our bodies following that one, twenty 5 years later, have been painted utilizing Tamiya spray paints and Bittydesign liquid masks, in ever extra advanced patterns. Rattle cans are an affordable and simple method of portray, and paired with liquid masks, fairly advanced paint jobs are achievable. The one downside I discover with them, is that the tiny droplets are typically a bit uneven in dimension and distribution, so it’s tough to put on a skinny, but even layer. This downside could be mitigated considerably by placing the cans in heat water (learn the warning textual content earlier than doing this! Cautious!) earlier than utilizing them, thereby rising the stress, and in flip getting barely smaller particles. Nevertheless, for colours which have a pure weak pigment, like crimson and yellow, I nonetheless discover that I want three layers for an excellent coat.

For a paint job with solely two or three totally different colours, this isn’t an issue. My Yeti has sixteen layers of paint, that was an issue. Because the paint builds up, it turns into tougher to peel the liquid masks. When I got here to the final half a dozen layers or so, I truly needed to minimize by the paint to have the ability to peel off the underlying masks.

I’ve since purchased an airbrush, no extra rattle cans for me. The airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS with a .35 needle, for medium to element work, not ideally suited to portray lexan our bodies. Paints for polycarbonate are fairly a bit thicker than the acryl paints I exploit for miniatures, so I used to be very curious to see how it will address Hobbynox airbrush colours. Nicely sufficient, it turned out.

Now, thoughts that I’m used to airbrushing utilizing Vallejo acrylic colours, top quality acrylic paints made for plastic fashions. That’s what I’m evaluating Hobbynox airbrush paints to, and that’s some very robust, truly completely unfair, competitors.

I attempted to pay money for Professional-Line colours, however since that proved to be tough the place I dwell, I turned to Hobbynox. They’ve a fairly intensive vary, at an honest worth, so the primary downside was realizing precisely which blue I ought to get. Change blue, Iridescent blue, Neon blue, Stable blue, Pearl blue or clear blue? The hue is fairly comparable for all these totally different choices, however in line with their respective descriptions they differ fairly a bit within the closing paint impact.

The Change colours are imagined to “add shimmering metallic highlights as you view it from totally different angles. […] If backed with stable black you’ll get a stable metallic colour with the highlights as you view it from totally different angles.” The Pearl colours are “vibrant paints made by combining pearlescent pigments of varied varieties.” In comparison with metallic paint they’re “not restricted to sparcle with silver alone and the paint impact appears to be like somewhat deeper”. In the meantime, the Iridescent colours are “Pearl paints with an added hue shift that modifications its appearence totally on contours and edges of the painted merchandise.”

So many choices, however just one physique to color. To start with. After some deliberation, I made a decision on the Change and Iridescent blues. I attempted them each on a spare piece of lexan, with a few totally different backings, earlier than I made a decision to make use of Change blue backed with black as the primary colour, with a discrete accent in a hexagonal sample of Change blue backed first with Iridescent blue after which with black. Within the image beneath, solely the black backing stays, besides after all the lettering. It’s arduous to imagine that the physique will find yourself blue, when it appears to be like clear to start out, nevertheless it does.

And right here is the ultimate outcome, the hexagonal sample being discrete, primarily simply including somewhat little bit of life, however not demanding any consideration from the viewer. Simply the way in which I would like it.

When portray, I diluted the paints with Hobbynox Reducer to a ratio of roughly 3-4:1. This labored superb as a place to begin, utilizing a stress of 15-23 psi. Extra when overlaying massive surfaces, much less for finer work. For the extra detailed work, I diluted a paint a bit extra. Whereas the paint was fast to clog the needle as quickly as I interrupted the air stream, I’m nonetheless very proud of the paints. Certain, I couldn’t do as superb strains as I can with Vallejo colours, however that definitely can’t be anticipated both. The primary downside with my skinny needle was that it was a bit time consuming to color massive areas. Not an enormous deal when portray black since that’s a really seen colour, however with the Change blue it was a little bit of an issue. When first painted, that colour is hardly seen in any respect, so it was fairly tough to get an excellent layer. Then, when it’s backed by black, magic occurs and a deep blue metallic colour is the outcome. The blue shifts when considered from totally different angles, hints of purple and inexperienced giving life to it.

If I have been to get an airbrush particularly for RC our bodies, I’d purchase one with a 0.5 needle, like a Badger Patriot, however for now I’m completely happy to proceed with my Iwata Eclipse. For liquid masks (from Bittydesign, not Vallejo!), Bittydesign recommends a 1.4 or 1.7 needle, however with that I gained’t trouble since I discover it fairly simple to easily brush this on.

Whereas I haven’t tried it correctly, I’m guessing that Vallejo colours may very well be used on high of a layer of Hobbynox Intercoat-Clear, after which sealed with the identical, on small areas of element work. Particularly on craslers and drifters, our bodies that don’t get closely abused. I’ll do this ultimately, it’s on my RC to-do checklist, I’ll let you understand when I’ve some outcomes to share.

Backside line is that I gained’t purchase any extra rattle cans. Any more, it is going to be airbrush. Out of pure model loyalty, I’d have gotten Professional-Line paints if I may, however am very proud of the Hobbynox paints I’ve used. A number of colours and results to select from, and simple to work with even with an airbrush not likely suited to the job. Straightforward to dilute, simple to do colour gradients, and attainable to put on very skinny layers whereas nonetheless conserving them easy and even.

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